Fix a tank water heater that will not heat
We'll confirm the symptom, rule out power or gas supply, then isolate the cause—high-limit reset, thermostat, or heating element for electric; pilot light or thermocouple for gas—or tell you when to call a pro.
What you'll need
- Multimeter (for electric continuity tests)
- Screwdriver set (Phillips and flathead)
- Screwdriver (to remove access panel)
- Replacement thermostat or heating element (if tests show a fault)
Step-by-step diagnostic
Quick triage — pick your path
Get started
Choose the option that matches what you see. You can jump straight to that section.
- Follow this guide Work through the full procedure from confirming the symptom to testing components.
- Check power or gas supply You want to rule out power and gas supply first.
- Electric heater — high-limit and elements You have an electric tank heater and want to test the high-limit, thermostat, and heating elements.
- Gas heater — pilot light You have a gas tank heater and want to check the pilot.
- When to call a pro You smell gas, the pilot will not stay lit, or you have replaced parts and it still does not heat.
Show full guide
Steps
Goal: Confirm the symptom, rule out power or gas supply, then isolate the heating fault.
- Run hot water at a faucet for one to two minutes. Check the temperature.
- Good: The water stays cold or lukewarm—heater fault. Proceed to Check power or gas supply.
- Bad: The water is hot—different problem (e.g. faucet mixing valve); check faucet or plumbing.
Check power or gas supply
Goal: Rule out power loss and gas supply issues before opening the heater.
- Electric: Verify the circuit breaker for the water heater has not tripped. Electric tank heaters use 240 volts; both legs must be on. Reset the breaker if tripped.
- Gas: Confirm the gas supply valve is on. Check the gas valve on the heater itself is set to pilot or on per the label.
- Check the heater type: electric has a thick cord or junction box; gas has a gas line, vent pipe, and pilot light access panel.
- Good: Power or gas is on. Proceed to Electric path or Gas path based on your heater type.
- Bad: Breaker keeps tripping or you smell gas—evacuate immediately if gas smell; call 911 or gas utility from outside.
Electric path
Goal: Reset the high-limit and test the thermostat and heating elements on an electric tank heater.
- Remove the upper access panel and insulation. Locate the red high-limit cutoff reset button. Press it firmly. Replace the panel and wait 30–60 minutes for the tank to heat.
- If the high-limit trips again or the water still does not heat, turn off power at the breaker. Remove the access panels and insulation. Test each thermostat for continuity. Replace any that fail.
- To test the heating elements, shut off the water supply and drain the tank (or below element level). Test each element for continuity. Replace any that show no continuity or visible breaks.
- Good: You found and replaced the faulty part. Reassemble, refill, and test—the heater should produce hot water.
- Bad: All parts test good but the heater still does not heat—call a plumber. If you are not comfortable with 240 volts or draining the tank, call a plumber.
Gas path
Goal: Check the pilot and know when to call a pro for gas valve work.
- Remove the access panel at the bottom. Look for the pilot light. If the pilot is lit, run hot water at a faucet—the burner should ignite. If the burner does not light, the gas valve has failed—call a plumber.
- If the pilot is out, call a plumber. Pilot and gas valve work require a professional. Do not attempt to work on the pilot yourself.
- Good: The pilot is lit and the burner lights when you run hot water—the heater works.
- Bad: The pilot is out or will not stay lit—thermocouple or gas valve; call a plumber. Do not work on gas valves yourself.
When to get help
If you smell gas, evacuate immediately. Do not turn on lights or appliances. Call 911 or your gas utility from outside. Do not call a plumber for an active gas leak—that is an emergency.
Call a plumber if:
- The heater is gas and the pilot is out or will not stay lit (thermocouple or gas valve).
- The heater is gas and the pilot is lit but the burner does not light when you run hot water (gas valve).
- You have replaced the heating elements and thermostats and the electric heater still does not heat.
- You are not comfortable working with electricity or gas.
Verification
- Hot water reaches the faucet within one to two minutes of turning on the hot tap.
- Electric: high-limit has not tripped again; thermostats and heating elements test good.
- Gas: pilot light stays lit; burner ignites when you run hot water, no gas smell.
Escalation ladder
Work from the device outward. Stop when the problem is fixed.
- Confirm symptom Verify hot water is cold or lukewarm; rule out a different problem.
- Power or gas supply Check circuit breaker (electric) or gas supply valve (gas).
- Electric — high-limit and elements Reset high-limit; test and replace thermostat or heating element if faulty.
- Gas — pilot light Check pilot; if out or will not stay lit, call a plumber.
- Call a pro Gas smell—evacuate, call 911 or gas utility from outside. Gas valve work or repeated failures—call a plumber.
What to capture if you need help
Before calling support or posting for help, have these ready. It speeds everything up.
- Heater type (electric or gas)
- Whether power or gas is on
- High-limit / thermostat / heating element test results (electric)
- Pilot light status (gas)
- Steps already tried
Is hot water from taps cold or lukewarm?
Run hot water at a faucet for one to two minutes. Check the temperature. If the water stays cold or barely warm, the heater is not producing heat.
You can change your answer later.
Different problem
Is power on (electric) or gas supply on (gas)?
Electric: check circuit breaker. Gas: check gas supply valve and heater gas valve.
You can change your answer later.
Is the heater electric or gas?
Electric: power cord or junction box. Gas: gas line, vent pipe, pilot light access.
You can change your answer later.
Did the high-limit reset fix it?
Electric tanks have a resettable high-limit button on the thermostat. Press it and wait 30–60 minutes.
Did the high-limit reset fix it?
You can change your answer later.
Do the thermostats and heating elements have continuity?
Test upper and lower thermostats and heating elements with a multimeter. Turn off power and shut off water before draining to access elements.
Yes (all good, still no heat) No (replaced fault)
You can change your answer later.
Replace faulty part and test
Is the pilot light lit?
Remove the access panel. Look for the pilot flame at the burner.
You can change your answer later.
Does the burner light when you run hot water?
Run hot water at a faucet. The burner should ignite.
Does the burner light when you run hot water?
You can change your answer later.
Call a plumber
Reviewed by Blackbox Atlas
Frequently asked questions
- Why would a tank water heater not heat?
- Electric: a tripped high-limit cutoff, faulty thermostat, or failed heating element. Gas: pilot light out, bad thermocouple, or gas valve. Check power or gas supply first, then the heating components.
- Can I fix a tank water heater that will not heat myself?
- Yes, for electric heaters you can often reset the high-limit, test thermostats and heating elements, and replace faulty parts. Gas heaters: you can check if the pilot is lit, but pilot or gas valve work always requires a professional.
- When should I call a plumber for a water heater that will not heat?
- If you smell gas, evacuate immediately and call 911 or your gas utility from outside. Call a plumber if the heater is gas and the pilot is out or will not stay lit (gas valve or thermocouple), if you have replaced the heating elements and thermostats and it still does not heat, or if you are not comfortable working with electricity or gas.
Rate this guide
Was this helpful?
Thanks for your feedback.