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Fix a washing machine that leaks

We'll pinpoint when and where it leaks, then check inlet hoses, drain hose, pump, door seal, or tub seal—or tell you when to call a pro.

Troubleshooting · Home appliances
15–45 min
What you'll need
  • Adjustable wrench (for hose connections)
  • Screwdriver set (Phillips and flathead)
  • Replacement inlet hose, drain hose, drain pump, or door seal (if tests show a fault)
Step 1 of 7

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Steps

Goal: Confirm when and where the leak occurs, then isolate the cause.

  • Run a cycle and watch when water appears—during fill, drain, or spin—and where it pools (front, back, or under the machine).
  • Good: You know the phase and location. Proceed to Inlet hose path, Drain and pump path, or Door seal path based on your findings.
  • Bad: The leak is constant or unclear—check all hose connections first.

Inlet hose path

Goal: Fix leaks during the fill phase by checking and replacing inlet hoses.

  • Shut off the hot and cold supply valves behind the washer. Unplug the washer.
  • Inspect the hot and cold inlet hoses where they connect to the back of the washer and to the wall valves. Look for cracks, bulges, or wet spots.
  • Confirm the connections are hand-tight. If a hose is cracked or the rubber washer is worn, replace the hose with an exact match.
  • Turn the water back on and run a fill. You should see no drips at the connections.
  • Good: Leak stops. Bad: Leak continues—check the drain hose and pump.

Drain and pump path

Goal: Fix leaks during drain or spin by checking the drain hose and pump.

  • Shut off the water and unplug the washer. Pull the washer away from the wall.
  • Inspect the drain hose. Confirm it has a high loop above the flood rim of the standpipe. Check for kinks, clogs, or a loose clamp. Replace or tighten as needed.
  • Remove the front or rear access panel per your model. Locate the drain pump at the bottom. Inspect for cracks, loose hoses, or a worn seal. Replace the pump if faulty.
  • On front-loaders, a leak from under the machine during spin may be the tub seal. Replacing it requires drum removal—call a technician if you are not comfortable.
  • Good: Drain hose or pump fixed. Bad: Leak continues or tub seal is the cause—call a pro.

Door seal path

Goal: Fix leaks around the door on front-loaders.

  • Inspect the door seal (boot) around the drum opening. Look for tears, mold, or stiffness.
  • If the seal is damaged, replace it. Order by model number; check your owner’s manual or search “[brand] [model] washer door seal” for the correct part.
  • Clean the detergent drawer and dispenser cavity. Confirm the drawer is seated correctly.
  • Good: Door seal replaced and leak stops. Bad: Leak is under the machine during spin—tub seal; call a technician.

When to get help

Call an appliance technician if:

  • The leak continues after you have checked and fixed inlet hoses, drain hose, pump, and door seal.
  • The tub seal is leaking and you are not comfortable removing the drum.
  • You are unsure which part is failing.

Verification

  • No water appears during fill, drain, or spin.
  • Inlet hose connections are dry when the water is on.
  • Drain hose has a proper high loop and no kinks.
  • Pump and seals (if replaced) show no leaks during a full cycle.

Escalation ladder

Work from the device outward. Stop when the problem is fixed.

  1. Confirm when and where Pinpoint the leak—during fill, drain, or spin; at the back, front, or under the machine.
  2. Inlet and drain hoses Check inlet hoses and drain hose for cracks, loose connections, and proper routing.
  3. Drain pump Inspect the drain pump for cracks or worn seals; replace if faulty.
  4. Door seal and tub seal Front-loaders—check door seal and tub seal; replace if worn. Tub seal may require a pro.
  5. Call a pro Leak continues, tub seal needs replacement, or you are not comfortable—call an appliance technician.

What to capture if you need help

Before calling support or posting for help, have these ready. It speeds everything up.

  • When the leak occurs (fill, drain, spin)
  • Where the leak appears (front, back, under machine)
  • Washer type (top-load or front-load)
  • Steps already tried

Does the leak occur during the fill phase?

Run a cycle and watch when water appears. During fill, water enters through the inlet hoses. During drain or spin, water exits through the pump and drain hose.

Run a cycle and watch when the leak appears. During fill: suspect inlet hoses. During drain or spin: suspect drain hose, pump, or tub seal. Good: you know the phase. Bad: leak is constant or unclear—check all hose connections first.

Yes No

You can change your answer later.

Check inlet hoses

Inlet hoses connect the wall valves to the washer. Cracks, loose connections, or worn washers cause leaks during fill.

Shut off the water. Inspect the hot and cold inlet hoses at the back. Look for cracks, bulges, or wet spots. Confirm connections are hand-tight. Replace any cracked hose or worn washer. Turn water back on and run a fill—you should see no drips.

Done

Does the leak occur during drain or spin?

If not during fill, the leak may occur when water is pumped out. Check drain hose and pump.

If the leak happens during drain or spin, the fault is likely the drain hose, drain pump, or tub seal. If the leak is around the door on a front-loader, suspect the door seal. Good: you know the phase. Bad: leak is unclear—check hose connections and pump.

Yes No (around door or unclear)

You can change your answer later.

Is the leak at the back (hoses) or at the front/under the machine?

Back leaks point to the drain hose. Front or under-machine leaks point to the pump or tub seal.

Check where the water pools. Back: drain hose connection or routing. Front or under: pump or tub seal (front-loaders). Proceed to the matching path.

Back Front or under

You can change your answer later.

Check drain hose

The drain hose must have a high loop and a secure connection. Kinks or loose clamps cause leaks.

Inspect the drain hose. Confirm it has a high loop above the flood rim. Check for kinks, clogs, or a loose clamp. Replace or tighten as needed. Run a drain cycle—you should see no water escaping.

Done

Check pump and tub seal

The drain pump is at the bottom. On front-loaders, a failed tub seal also leaks from under the machine during spin.

Pull the washer out and remove the access panel. Inspect the drain pump for cracks or loose hoses. Replace if faulty. On front-loaders, a tub seal leak requires drum removal—call a technician if you are not comfortable. Good: pump replaced or seal fixed. Bad: leak continues—call a pro.

Done

Check door seal (front-loader)

A worn door seal on front-loaders leaks around the door during fill or spin.

On front-loaders, inspect the door seal around the drum opening. Look for tears, mold, or stiffness. Replace if damaged. If the leak is under the machine during spin, the tub seal may have failed—that repair often needs a technician. Good: door seal replaced and leak stops. Bad: tub seal or other fault—call a pro.

Done

Reviewed by Blackbox Atlas

Frequently asked questions

Why would a washing machine leak?
Common causes: cracked or loose inlet hoses, a kinked or disconnected drain hose, a cracked drain pump or worn pump seal, a worn door seal on front-loaders, or a failed tub seal. Pinpoint when and where it leaks to narrow it down.
Can I fix a leaking washing machine myself?
Yes, for inlet hoses, drain hose connections, and often the drain pump. Door seal replacement is doable on most front-loaders. Tub seal replacement requires more disassembly—call a technician if you are not comfortable.
When should I call a technician for a leaking washing machine?
Call a technician if the leak continues after you have checked and fixed hoses and seals, if the tub seal is leaking (front-loaders—requires significant disassembly), or if you are not comfortable working inside the washer.

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